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log 05.23.15



Fair and Breezy



Mostly Cloudy

Montauk to me, is a place of contrast and extremes. I associate it with late nights, but also early mornings. Relaxation, but going hard (sometimes way too hard). Lazy summer log days, and also some of the biggest, coldest, heaviest surf I’ve ridden on the east coast. There is mysterious and natural beauty, but also a strange cosmopolitan scene due to it’s proximity to NYC, and a casual allure that seems to attract a wealthy & trendy crowd. It’s a playground where there are no rules in many ways though. Since I don’t live on the east coast anymore and my visits are usually brief, I mostly return in the fall and have some go-to spots that I need to hit up whenever in town. It’s hard for me to pick favorites when it comes to Montauk and this list has changed over the years with all the changes to the area, but here are the places that usually make me miss “The End” the most while I’m out west. Take em or leave em.


Looking for some rad new tees to replenish your warm weather wardrobe this summer? Look no further, our pal and Indoek contributor, Ty Williams has a new line of apparel available now online called Notes Brand. The tee art by Ty references his travelled, eclectic and naturalistic sensibilities, with a touch of surfiness. Get some here:
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Artist, designer, wood worker, and friend, Todd St. John of Hunter Gatherer studio will be debuting a collection of furniture starting Saturday thru Tuesday at ICFF. Todd collaborated with us on the Indoek Wax Kit and has since delved further into the art of furniture design. His unique pieces reflect his clean yet eclectic, geometric design sensibilities and we look forward to seeing more.
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I remember when I first got into surfing in the midst of my awkward teen angst in the 90’s, combing through the pages of surf magazines and always pausing on images of a goofy character in flamboyant wetsuits designed like comic book character outfits. This guy was either busting crazy airs or charging huge waves – both feats were pretty radical at that time and were pretty much in stark contrast to each other. He just seemed like he was having a blast doing all of it and was laughing the whole scene and the danger of his situations off. Shawn “Barney” Barron was one of my first surf heroes because of that wacky style and his creative antics, both in and out of the water. I never met Barney, but he is a character that made surfing fun and irreverent, there has been no one like him as far as I know and I am deeply saddened by his passing. Check out this tribute edit to Barney, one of Santa Cruz’s finest, taken too soon. Innovative aerialist, big-wave charger, artist, unforgettable character, was an integral part of Volcom’s early days who helped push the brand and style of what Volcom represents. Rest in peace, Barney, we will miss you.

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How would you like to have that new board feeling every time you surf for 11 sessions straight? You know; waxing up a brand new, pearly white surfboard straight from the shaper and letting it touch the ocean for the first time, laying down your first smooth turn, then eventually giving it it’s first of many pressure dings… Stab Magazine invited 12 of the world’s best shapers to each create a board for an unidentified 6’0”, 80kg CT surfer. Fast-forward some months and Julian Wilson was standing in the garage of a West Oz rental, opening two coffins full of cleanskin boards – no markings, no stickers, no pencil on the stringer, nothing identifiable – one from California, the other direct from Sydney. This video shows his “blind surf test” process in choosing what he considered the best board. Spoiler alert: it was the DHD.
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Legendary singer-songwriter and founding member of the Beach Boys, Brian Wilson, discusses the first time he saw the ocean, inventing surf music without being a surfer, and the joys of a simple life in the latest California Inspires Me animated video. Explore all the entertainment that shaped Brian Wilson here:

It never ceases to amaze me when I stumble across high-end surfboards that seem to be specifically designed for someone’s Malibu beach house wall instead of actually surfing waves. Who knows though, maybe some of them work really, really well? Like this weird concept board that Peugot made, or these “luxury surfboards” made by a product design studio. Or maybe they are just meant for the Elon Musks of the world who want a sweet wall-hanger. Either way, if I had $10,000 to spare, I might actually buy one of these fancy beauties made for the Kelly Wearstler home decor collection.
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This week has been full of mixed emotions out in LA. On one hand, the stoke levels have been fiercely high with a solid 5-6 days of overhead surf. On the other hand, there’s the crowd factor. Couple that with the full moon and there’s bound to be some primal weirdness. With so many other breaks closing out due to the conditions, Malibu has played host to the hoards of surf-starved wave fiends all week – literally all day and even all night long. Leave it to the Brothers Marshall to capture themayhem and absurdity of first point, Malizoo in this video. Enjoy, and see you next south swell!